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SPECIAL FEATURES
Open the back flap and keep page 126 visible.
Red Eyes in Flash Pictures —
RED-EYE REDUCTION FLASH
When taking flash photos of persons in the dark the flashlight falls into the
wide-open iris. There the flashlight is reflected red from the retina.
The Red-Eye Reduction Flash emits a series of low-power pre-flashes
before the main flash. This gives the subject’s eyes a chance to adapt to
the bright light by making the iris smaller. Assuming that the subject looks
into the pre-flashes, the eyes will not appear red in the picture (see figure
3 on page 126).
Hold the camera securely. It takes about 1 second until the shutter
releases.
Red-eye reduction may not be effective when the subject:
1. Is not looking at the flash from right in front.
2. Is not watching the pre-flashes.
3. Is too far from the camera.
The effectiveness of red-eye reduction varies depending on the
individual characteristics of each subject.
No Flash Allowed or Flash Spoils Atmosphere —
FLASH-OFF
The Flash-Off is needed where flash photos are not allowed or where you
want to keep the twilight or candlelight atmosphere unspoiled (see figure 4
on page 126).
Since a slow shutter speed (as low as 2 seconds) is selected, use a
tripod to prevent camera-shake.
Have your subject stay still; otherwise, blurring may result.
Closing the lens barrier restores the Auto Flash mode.
Shadow on the Face — FILL-IN FLASH
When taking portrait photos in backlight or underneath a tree or roof, the
subject’s face may look too dark if it’s in front of a brighter background.
The Fill-In Flash provides just the right amount of additional light to
compensate for the shadow (see figure 5 on page 126) and for fluorescent
light.
Make sure your subject is within the flash working range (p. 7).
Fill-in flash becomes ineffective in extremely bright conditions.
Closing the lens barrier restores the Auto Flash mode.
City at Night — NIGHT SCENE FLASH
When taking a walk in the city at night, you may want to take photos of
your subject in the foreground with the city lights in the background. The
Night Scene Flash takes care of this. The main flash lights the subject in
the foreground while the shutter stays open up to 4 seconds to capture the
city lights. You’ll need to secure the camera on a tripod or other support to
prevent camera shake (see figure 6 on page 126).
SPECIAL FEATURES
Press the exposure mode button
( / ). The mode switches in the
order shown on the left. The selected
mode is displayed on the LCD panel.
Closing the lens barrier restores the
Auto Exposure mode.
Combination of the Two Modes —
RED-EYE REDUCTION NIGHT SCENE FLASH
Prevents the typical red eyes seen in pictures when shooting at night (see
figure 7 on page 126). Both modes cannot be used with the Spot Metering
mode. Closing the lens barrier restores the Auto Flash mode.
SETTING THE FLASH MODES
Press the flash mode button ( ). The
mode switches in the order shown on
the left. The selected mode is
displayed on the LCD panel.
Do not fire the flash right in front of the
eyes of people and animals. Do not
point the camera at a motorist and fire
the flash.
High contrast — SPOT METERING
When taking photos in a high contrast environment (e.g. backlight
portraits), the main subject may come out too dark or too bright. To make
sure that the subject is exposed correctly use Spot Metering (see figure 1
on page 2).
Position the spot marks (A) on the area where you want to measure the
light. Press the shutter release button halfway; the green lamp lights and
the focus and exposure are locked on that area. Reframe your subject and
press the shutter release button all the way.
Shooting scenery — INFINITY
The camera automatically sets the workings distance at infinity. The flash
does not fire except in the Fill-In Flash mode (see figure 2 page 2).
SETTING THE EXPOSURE MODES
Auto Flash
Red-Eye
Reduction Flash
Flash-Off
Fill-In
Night Scene
Flash
Red-Eye
Reduction Night
Scene Flash
Auto Exposure
Spot Metering
Infinity
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