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For lifting up the lathe you may call in the help of an assistent, this depends on the weight. Before you begin you have to arrange how to lift the
machine. You should rather put the machine from the pallet on the permanent destination at one go. The best thing is to grip the machine at
the ends of the bed, so do not grip it on the heads, transporter, change wheel case or motor! The apparatus weights roughly 115 kg. For
reducing the weight temporary a number of parts can be removed carefully, like the tail stock, the turning plate with building and the discs from
iron cast. The lathe has to be level and it has to be installed on a strong bottom. If you make an under-carriage yourself you can use a steel U-
profile of sufficient lenght, on which you can sold or screw a leg construction. You can also use a strong wooden lower case with
a strengthened and flat upper blade, for example by means of a piece of multiple worktop. The conditi on is that the formation has to be stiff in
every directions and that it cannot fling about, bend or wobble. The lathe is fixed with two bolts M10 in the special gaps in both bottom plates.
You can take the following precautionary measures for preventing that small roughnesses still cause tension on the bed if you
tighten the two bolts. You draw the place of the two bottom platesand the two assembling gaps and you assemble two bolts M10 in
the foundation. Put on the drawn places a layer epoxy filling. Install a plastic foil on this. See that the bolts stay clear! Then install the
workbench on the drawn place. Use the two bolts for this as the conductor. Let down the bed on the foil and then harden the filling.
After that you can provide the bolts with the nuts which are also used for the transport, and then you can tighten these ones again.
Elelctrical connection
After the motor has been installed permanently a connection to the electrical installation has to be made. The machine has been made for use
on the existing 230 Volts alternating current mains and hasn’t a power bigger than other big household equipment with a motor. Have an
earthed power point installed in the nearness of the machine and see that the lead can be guided to the contact without cracks and pulls. If
need be an earthed extension cable can be used, but see that the cable is unrolled entirely and that it is not in the way.
4. BEFORE OPERATION
For transport the machine has been greased with a layer which prevents rust. This layer has no greasing function and has to be removed with
clothes. You can do this with a solvant which is not aggressive, for example turpentine or petroleum. When you are acquainted with metal-
working machines you can dismantle, control and oil several spare parts with a light and universel machine-oil, for example sewing-machine
oil (sour free). Afterwards you finish the complete maintenance table of chapter 14 ‘maintenance’.
Adjustment
Fig.5 & 15
Tab.1
The lathe has been adjusted to a minimum margin by the factory. Because of transport some adjustments can be changed.
On the other hand the machine has been designed in such a way that any appearing margin can be lifted. This margin is also caused by wear
end tear as a consequence of an intensif use. If re-adjustment does not have an effect anymore, the part is worned and has to be moved. If all
preparations have been done the machine can be connected to the mains by putting the plug into the power point. Beforehand check if the
mains switch is “OFF” and check if the turning directions is “RIGHT”. Watch the gauge once more and see if the oil level has not changed and if
necessary you have to fill it till the gauge half-full. See that there is no paper or cleaning-rag for the ventilati on openings of the motor. Check
the three-jaw and see that the basins cannot come out of the jaw.
Put the jaw-wrench on a permanent place.
Open the protection case and check the position and tension of the belts. For running on trial the lowest turning speed has to be chosen. You
may shift the front belt, watch Fig.5 and 15. Push in the switch and have the machine turned during 20 minutes. Check regularly if the head
bearings in the headstock and the motor do not become hot by stopping the machine and putting a hand on both side of the headstock and on
the motor body. Immediately stop if you hear a deviating noise and if you feel an abnormal heath development ( more than handwarm) and
first con tact your supplier. Then switch over to a higher speed and have the machine also function a few minutes on this speed. Do this again
with a reversed turning direction. If no problems have arisen, the machine is ready for use.
Spare part Lifting a margin Recoures
Spindle tool slide Loosen the front lock nut, distort the back lock nut clockwise, until margin is minimum, turn
back a fourth part and tighten the front lock nut.
2 Hook spanners
Tool slide Loosen the lock nuts, tightening the adjusting nuts clockwise until margin is minimum, tighten
lock nuts
Screw-driver, open
end wrench
Spindle cross slide Watch spindle tool support Idem
Cross slide Watch tool slide idem Idem
Transmission /
starting shaft
Loosen front lock nut and tighten hindmost lock nut until margin is no longer noticeable, turn
back a quarter part and tighten the front lock nut
Idem
Tailstock Loosen clamping nut, unscrew both adjusting nuts on both sides a quarter part. Move head
with adjusting screws until the mark signs on the right side of the head correspond, tighten the
adjusting screws again a bit without moving the head, fix-ing the clamping nut.
Screw-driver, open
end wrench
Ferm 07
98 Ferm
D
NL
F
E
P
I
RUS
GR
Annex 2 - Parts list toolslide
No. Part
1 Clamping screws
2 Clamp lever
3 Tool post
4 Tool post pin
5 Tool slide top
6 Key
7 Adjusting bolt
8 Spindle nut
9 Spindle
10 Sunk key
11 Spindle Bearing
12 Socket head screws
13 Castle locking nut
14 Handwheel lever
15 Vernier
16 Driving plate lock nut
17 Tool slide base
18 Clamping bolt
19 Driving plate base
20 Pin driving plate
21 Cross slide key
2
7


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