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  • Page 1



  • Page 2

    I

    We have published the Operation and Service Manual to aid you in the
    operation and minor service repairs of your new VIKING TURISSA SEW
    ING MACHINE. If. you carefully read this manual, you will be able to make
    use of all the sewing possibilities that are available to you.
    We hope you will enjoy your VIKING TURISSA and have many pleasant
    sewing hours.
    VIKING SEWING MACHINE CO., INC.

    I

    ieM,y

    I

    (Ci•



  • Page 3

    Table of contents
    OPERATING MANUAL
    Accessory box
    Blindstitching
    Bridging Stitch
    Bringing up the lower thread
    Buttonhole Knife
    Buttonholes
    Changing the needle
    Changing the presser foot ‘ankle”
    Changing the srsapon presser foot
    Connection to electric outlet
    Correct and incorrect thread tension
    Darning
    Etastic straight stitch
    Extension plate
    Free arm
    Free .hand monograms and embroidery
    Insertion of bobbin case
    Lighting
    Lowering the feed dog
    Meiding and patching

    ::::: : :: ::: ::::::

    Needle position
    Qverlock stitch
    Pattern stitching
    Patterns and utility stitches
    Presser foot pressure control
    Regular presser foot
    Removing the bobbin case
    Reverse cycle patterns and utility stitches
    Ric rac stitch
    Roller presser foot

    2

    .

    5
    20
    24
    9
    28
    26
    6
    12
    12
    4
    11
    36
    19
    5
    5
    37

    Selecting the stitch
    Sewing on buttons
    Shell stitch
    Straight stitching
    Tension of lower thread
    Tension of upper thread .
    Thread cutter
    Threading the lower thread
    Threading the upper thread
    Three step zigzag
    Twin needles
    Winding the bobbin
    Zigzag stitching
    Zipper presser foot
    .

    14

    29
    25
    15
    10
    10
    10
    S
    9
    22
    7
    16
    30

    4
    13
    34

    SERVICE MANUAL
    15
    23
    16
    17
    4
    13
    7
    18
    18
    30

    Belt tension
    Bobbinwincler adjustments
    Bobbinwinder wheel replacement
    Change needle
    Cleaning
    Light bulb
    Lubrication
    Maintenance hints
    Needle plate replacement
    Sewing hook clogged

    ..39
    46
    47
    39
    40
    45
    I

    49
    45
    48



  • Page 4

    1. Bobbrn Winder Tension
    2. Top Thread Guides
    3. Thread Take-up Lever
    4. Light Switch
    5. Face Plate
    6. Front Thread Guide
    7. Upper Thread Tension
    Dial
    8. Lower Thread Guide

    9, Needle
    10. Needle
    11. Needle
    12. Presser
    13. Presser

    Clamp
    Thread Guide
    Bar
    Foot Screw

    14. Presser Foot
    15. Needle Plate
    16. Free Arm
    17 Shuttle Cover

    18.
    19.
    20.
    21.
    22.
    23.
    24.
    25,
    26.

    Shuttie
    Thread Spool Pins
    Bobbin Winder
    Bobbin Winder Stop
    Handwheel
    Handwheel Release
    Stitch Width Selector
    Program Selector
    Transparent Indicator

    27.
    28.
    29.
    30.
    31.
    32.
    33.
    34.

    Setting Dot
    Reverse Feeding Lever
    Stitch Length Dial
    I-tote for Attaching
    Extension Plate
    Setting Dot
    Drop Feed Dial
    Base Plate
    Presser Foot Pressure
    Control



  • Page 5

    Connection to electric outlet
    I

    A. Plug cord into foot control.
    B. Attach plug to machine.
    C. Plug cord into wall outlet.

    c

    A

    ‘I

    Lighting
    To turn light on or off, press button located on
    face plate. The light bulb is located inside the
    face plate. To remove the bulb, unscrew the
    bulb through the opening at the bottom of the
    face plate.

    ii

    Presser foot pressure control

    1’
    j

    4



    The pressure control for the presser bar is lo
    cated on top of the machine on the left side.
    To change the pressure on the presser foot,
    press down on the outer ring. The inner section
    will move up. You now have no pressure on the
    presser foot. As you push down on the inner
    section you will increase the pressure. Loose
    pressure on the presser foot is used mostly for
    sewing on certain types of stretch fabric such
    as sweater fabric. Tight pressure on the presser
    foot is used for sewing girdle fabrics.



  • Page 6

    Free arm
    Trouser legs and sleeves can be placed around
    free arm for easy mending, sewing or patching.
    The free arm also makes it much easier to
    attach collars and cuffs as well as sew small
    children’s clothes and darn stockings.

    Extension plate
    When you need a larger working surface, attach
    the extension plate. To install extension plate
    on machine, pull down the leg support, then
    position plate around free arm, pulling out
    catch on underside with right index finger.
    Make sure groove on back of extension plate
    fits around projected peg on back of sewing
    machine. Lock in place by releasing catch so it
    snaps into hole.



    Accessory box
    The accessory box is located under the exten
    sion plate. To, remove the accessory box, pull
    the box to the left.
    5



  • Page 7

    Needle and thread
    Cotton
    Sewing
    Thread

    Synthetic
    Thread

    No.

    No.

    60

    50--60
    40--50
    40
    30
    30
    -

    Machine
    Embroidery
    Thread
    No.

    50
    30—50
    30--50

    Needle
    Width
    No.

    70/10
    80/12
    90/14
    100/16
    110/18
    120120

    Synthetic threads are not generally numbered. Use a
    fine needle for fine thread and a heavier needle for
    heavier thread.

    Your sewing machine uses a type 705 or type
    130 needle. This number refers to the length
    and configuration of the needle. It is best to
    purchase your needles from your dealer. How
    ever, if this is not possible due to some emer
    gency condition in your locality you can get by
    temporarily with what is commonly called a
    15x1 needle which is carried in stock by almost
    all sewing machine stores or wherever they sell
    sewing machine needles.
    The above-mentioned needles come in various
    widths. And the larger the width number the
    larger the eye of the needle.
    With regard to the size of the needle it may be
    generally said that numbers 80/12 or 90/14 can
    be used for most fabrics.
    For a finer thread or for sheer or tightly woven
    fabrics a finer needle can be used.
    For a very heavy or stiff fabric a heavy needle
    can be used; the higher the needle number the
    heavier the needle. The sizes of thread and
    needle to be used are shown in the chart.

    Changing the needle
    Loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the
    needle. When you insert the new needle, turn
    the flat side away from you and push the needle
    up into the needle socket as far as the stop.
    Tighten the screw so that the needle is held
    firmly.
    6



  • Page 8

    Removing the bobbin case
    Lift or remove extension plate. Bring needle
    to highest position by turning haridwheel to
    wards you. Open shuttle cover.
    Grasp bobbin case latch with thumb arid index
    finger and pull out bobbin case.

    Winding the bobbin
    With one hand hold handwheel stationary and
    use other hand to turn handwheel release (A)
    (turning towards you) to disengage sewing mech
    anism. Place empty bobbin on bobbin winder.
    Rotate bobbin on winder pressing down gently,
    until the notch on bobbin winder engages
    bobbin. Push bobbin towards handwheel and it
    will snap in position next to bobbin winder
    stop.
    Place spool of thread on spool pin. Guide
    thread through rear upper thread guide, around
    bobbin winder tension and wind thread around
    the bobbin a few times. Hold the end of thread
    while pressing foot control. Release end of
    thread as soon as winding process is underway.
    Bobbin winder stop will allow bobbin to fill
    completely. Now, •move bobbin away from
    handwheel; remove bobbin from bobbin winder
    and tighten handwheel release (by turning away
    from you).
    If you do not wish to completely fill your
    bobbin with thread, you may stop any time
    during the winding process by moving bobbin
    winder spindle to the left.
    7



  • Page 9

    Threading the lower thread
    When bobbin is wound, hold it beside the
    bobbin case with thread running in direction
    of arrow in photo. Slide thread into the slot
    on edge of bobbin case as shown. Pull thread
    under tension spring. Check to b sure bobbin
    rotates in direction of arrow when thread is
    pulled.
    The hook on top of the bobbin case is used to
    increase the bottom tehsion when making
    buttonholes or when doing embroidery work.
    Before you insert the bobbin case, hook the
    thread on the hook on the bobbin case.

    Insertion of bobbin case
    Grasp bobbin case latch with thumb and index
    finger and place on shuttle spindle, with bobbin
    case opening on top or nearest the needle.
    Press bobbin case to make sure :it is locked
    in
    place. Release the latch.

    8

    II



  • Page 10

    Threading the upper thread
    Raise presser bar. Turn handwheel until needle is
    in highest position.
    Place spool of thread on a spool pin (A).
    With circular motion, guide thread through
    upper thread guides, rear and front (B & C).
    Bring thread down and around tension dial (D).
    Now hold spool steady and pull end of thread
    upward and over to the right to lock thread
    into the thread tension spring.
    Insert thread through either eye of take-up
    lever (E).
    Place thread through front thread guide (F).
    Guide thread behind and through lower thread
    guide (G).
    Slip thread around left hook of needle thread
    guide (H).
    Thread the needle from the front to the back.

    Bringing up the lower thread
    Hold the threaded upper thread and turn the
    handwheel toward you until the needle goes
    down and then up again. When the needle is
    in its highest position, pull the upper thread
    and you will get a loop of lower thread which
    is easy to catch.
    You should not pull the upper thread too hard
    as this may bend the needle.
    Pull the threads (upper and lower) about 6”
    (15 cm) toward the rear. If thread ends are too
    short, the thread may slip out of the eye of the
    needle when you begin to sew.
    -

    9



  • Page 11

    Thread cutter
    ?



    /

    On the back of the presser bar you will
    find a
    notch, the thread cutter, which mak
    es it easy
    for you to cut off the threads.

    ç</ /•>-.

    Tension of upper thread
    The dial which regulates the
    tension of the
    upper thread is graduated from
    0 to 5. Your
    machine has been tested with
    the thread which
    accompanies it. It may be nec
    essary to adjust
    the thread tension somewhat
    if you use thread
    of another thickness.
    For example, a heavier-tha
    n-ordinary sewing
    thread usually requires a higher
    upper thread
    tension. To increase the upp
    er thread tension,
    turn the dial to a higher number
    .

    Tension of lower thread

    10

    In most special sewing cases it
    is sufficient to
    change only the upper thread
    tension. Rarely
    do you need to adjust the lower
    thread tension.
    If it is necessary to adjust the
    tension of the
    lower thread, use the small scre
    wdriver from the
    accessory box. Fit it in the large
    r screw on the
    thread tension spring and turn
    it not more
    than 1/10th of a turn to the
    left if the thread
    tension is too tight; to the
    right if it is too
    loose.



  • Page 12

    Correct and incorrect thread
    tension
    In order to easily understand the importance
    of correct thread tension, you can try different
    thread tensions by sewing two thicknesses of
    fabric. Begin by using an excessively loose
    tension, i.e. you turn the upper thread tension
    dial to the left as far as it will go. Look at the
    fabric and you will find the lower thread lies
    straight and the upper thread is drawn down
    into the lower side of the fabric. If you turn
    the dial to the right, the opposite occurs. The
    upper thread lies straight and the lower thread
    comes up in loops on the top of the fabric.
    The thread tension is correct when the threads
    interlock in the middle of the layers of fabric
    (approximately at 3 on the dial). Before starting
    to sew, check the tension by sewing on two
    thicknesses of the same fabric you intend to
    work with.

    Corrct

    Wrong

    Wrong

    Before you begin to use the zigzag stitch, check
    that the thread tension is the same as when you
    did straight stitching. Use a scrap of fabric to
    see how the zigzag stitches look if you set them
    first on the loosest (upper picture), then on
    the higher thread tension (middle picture).
    Then finally the correct thread tension will
    look about like that in the lower picture. It is
    important that you use the same weight thread
    on the bobbin as on the spool.

    ,-,.--

    ‘<NN’—

    Correct

    \/\/\/\/\/\i\

    11



  • Page 13

    Changing the snap-on
    presser foot
    The presser feet which accompany the machine
    have the form of loose soles which are held in
    place on the presser foot “ankle” by a spring.
    To change the presser foot, turn the handwheel
    toward you until the needle is in the highest
    position. Remove the presser foot by drawing
    it toward you while pressing slightly down
    ward.

    Slide the new presser foot over the front edge of
    the ankle bracket as shown in the illustration.
    There is a spring on the lower end of the ankle
    bracket. Slide on the presser foot so that the
    round transverse pin on the presser foot fits
    into the space between the bracket and the
    spring. Then press lightly backward and down
    ward and the presser foot will snap into the
    correct position.

    Changing the presser
    foot ‘nkle”
    Certain presser feet cannot be constructed as
    loose soles and then the ankle bracket must
    also be changed. Make sure that the needle is
    in its highest position. Then loosen the re
    taining screw with your left hand and remove
    the presser foot ankle with your right hand.
    12



  • Page 14

    Regular presser foot
    The presser foot (383) which is fitted on the
    machine at delivery, is used for normal straight
    stitching, zigzag stitching and other: utility
    stitches. As you can see, it has different notches
    which can be used as guides when sewing. If
    you wish to have a seam allowance about
    (6 mm), let the material run even with the
    outer edge of the presser foot (applies to straight
    stitching with the needle in the center position).
    By moving one step inwards you will have a
    seam allowance of about 5/32” (4 mm). The
    innermost notch gives a seam allowance of
    about 5/64” (2 mm).

    Upper side

    L-e- sce



    2
    4
    7

    Needle plate
    Exact seam allowances may be obtained by
    using guides on the needle plate which are
    measured from needle in CENTER position.

    Lowering the feed dog
    You lower the feed dog by turning the Drop
    Feed Dial to “crosshatch” symbol.
    To raise the feed dog turn the Drop Feed
    Dial to the symbol for a regular seam.
    Lower the feed dog when you sew on buttons,
    form closing bars (bar-tacks) and carry out
    certain darning work, embroidery, etc.
    13



  • Page 15

    Selecting the stitch
    As you face the machine you wifl see two round
    controls. The one towards the top of the
    machine is the Stitch Program Selector.
    The outer scale is for selecting the needle
    position, the zigzag width and for making
    buttonholes.
    The middle scale is used for selecting various
    patterns.
    The inner scale is used for selecting various
    reverse cycle stitches.
    The red window indicates which function the
    machine is going to perform.
    The middle and inside scales are changed by
    moving the handle. The outside scale is moved
    by turning the outside scale.
    Remember to always turn the dial clockwise.

    The other control on the right of the machine
    is the Stitch Length Dial, the reverse cycle
    control and the control for sewing in reverse.

    14



  • Page 16

    Straight stitching
    To make a regular straight stitch with the
    needle in the center position, turn the outer
    scale on the Program Selector so that the middle
    o is in the red window. Turn the pattern select
    or so that the symbol on the handle is aligned
    with the red window. Turn the Stitch Length
    Dial to 2. If you wish a longer stitch, move
    the control toward 5. If you want a smaller
    stitch turn toward 0. To sew in reverse, press
    down the lever located on the right of the
    Stitch Length Dial. When released, the machine
    will resume normal forward sewing.

    Needle position
    There are three needle positions: left, center
    and right. On the outer scale of the Program
    Selector you will see a scale from 0 5 in three
    different places. The scale with the letter E on
    top puts the machine in left hand needle posi
    tion (line on left). The middle scale puts the
    needle in center position. The third scale puts
    the needle in right hand position (line on right).
    -

    15



  • Page 17

    Zigzag stitching
    Put needle in center position. Align the symbol
    on the handle with the red window. Move the
    outer scale and select the width required from
    to 5. The higher the number, the wider the
    zigzag. Select the length of stitch desired on the
    Stitch Length Dial.
    Zigzag stitches are mostly used for overcasting
    edges. Make sure that the needle sews over the
    edge of the fabric. A narrow zigzag stitch is
    also used for sewing tricot. You also use the
    zigzag stitch for embroidery work, sewing on
    buttons, snaps, etc.

    o

    Pattern stitching
    Upper Side

    Under Side

    /LJ

    When using the decorative stitches, change to
    the pattern foot. The pattern presser foot gives
    a more raised seam, thanks to the space behind
    the needle-hole on the underside, and should
    be used for all close pattern stitching and for
    close zigzag stitching. You will find the pattern
    presser foot in the accessory box.

    16

    II



  • Page 18

    Patterns and utility stitches
    To obtain the patterns shown on the middle
    scale turn the outer ring to number 5, center
    needle position. Turn the handle so that the
    desired symbol on the middle scale is lined
    up with the red window. Set the Stitch Length
    Dial for buttonholes. The stitch length can be
    varied by turning the Stitch Length Dial.
    For decorative stitches we suggest that you
    loosen the top thread tension slightly so that
    the knots form on the bottom of the fabric.
    We also suggest that you put the bottom thread
    through the hook on the bobbin case.

    1o

    —1

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    17

    II



  • Page 19

    Reverse cycle patterns and
    utility stitches
    The symbols for reverse cycle stitches are on
    the inner scale of the Program Selector. Turn
    the outer scale so that number 5 in the center
    position is in the red window. Turn the handle
    so that the desired symbol on the inner scale
    is lined up with the red window.

    To lock the machine in reverse cycle, hold down
    the reverse control and move the Stitch Length
    Dial towards the left so that the reverse cycle
    sewing symbol lines up with the dot on the
    machine. Be sure that when you finish using
    the reverse cycle stitch that you unlock the
    reverse mechanism by presssing down the
    reverse lever, and turn the Stitch Length Dial
    clockwise to 0. Release the reverse lever and set
    the stitch length at the desired point.

    >%i

    >I
    >%

    Ric rac stitch
    Setting for pattern No. 1 in illustration.
    Turn the outer scale on the Program Selector
    to 5, center needle position. Align the symbol
    on the handle with the red window. Set the
    Stitch Length Dial for reverse cycle.

    8

    F



  • Page 20

    Elastic straight stitch
    Turn the outer scale on the Program Selector to
    0, center needle position. Align the symbol on
    the handle with the red window. Set the Stitch
    Length Dial for reverse cycle. Press down on
    the reverse lever and turn the Stitch Length
    Dial to the left.

    .

    The elastic straight stitch is a triple lock straight
    stitch combining stretchability and strength.
    The stretchability makes it useful for sewing
    on knits and other stretch fabrics. It is also
    used for sewing crotch seams, sewing bias seams
    and for sleeve insertion. The elastic straight
    stitch can also be used for decorative purposes.

    Ill
    Ill
    Ill
    III
    Ill
    Ill
    Ill
    Ill
    III
    19

    II



  • Page 21

    Blindstitching
    Turn the outer scale on the Proaram S&ector
    in
    so that No. 3 in the center needle position Is
    the
    that
    so
    handle
    the red window. Turn the
    ) lines up with the red
    blind hem symbol (
    window. Set the Stitch Length Dial O 2:.
    Use blind stitch presser foot.

    is used• for hemming without
    on the right side. As you
    showing
    stitches
    the
    it consists of four
    sketch,
    will see from the
    straight stitches and one zigzag stitch.
    Blindstitching

    :
    I
    I
    I
    I

    S
    I

    20



  • Page 22

    Fold the fabric as shown in the sketch. Both the
    length and the width of the stitches may have to
    be changed; it depends upon the fabric you are
    sewing.

    In the far left illustration can be seen how the
    stitches fail to reach the fold line of the fabric,
    indicating you should increase the stitch width.
    In the middle illustration the stitch width has
    been increased too much, leading to excessive
    “bite”, indicating you should decrease the
    stitch width.
    In the right illustration is shown how a correctly
    sewn blindstitched hem should look. The seam
    catches only one or two threads of the fold
    line.



  • Page 23

    Three-step zigzag
    so
    Turn the outer dial on the Program Selector
    is
    tion
    posi
    le
    need
    r
    that number 5 in the cente
    the
    that
    so
    le
    in the red window. Turn the hand
    ) on the middle
    three-step zigzag symbol (
    scale is lined up with the red window. Set the
    Stitch Length Dial on number 1.5. This is the
    most common size for the three-step zigzag.
    You can vary the stitch width and the stitch
    length according to the work you are doing.

    .
    12

    ‘.4—.

    .4—

    44-

    ‘.4‘.422

    Three-step zigzag has many advantages over
    ordinary zigzag when overcasting. It should
    replace the zigzag stitch when overcasting thin
    fabrics since ordinary zigzag may tend to cause
    the edge of the material to curt.
    Thick fabrics may be overcast twice with threestep in order to fasten the coarse threads in the
    weave.
    Three-step zigzag is even more elastic than or
    dinary zigzag. It should therefore be used for
    overcasting knit and stretch fabrics, if the seam
    is to be pressed open.
    Three-step zigzag is also used for sewing terry
    cloth, darning and mending.



  • Page 24

    Overlock stitch
    Turn the outer dial on the Program Selector
    so that number 5 in the center needle position
    is in the red window. Turn the handle so that
    the symbol (
    ) on the inner scale is lined
    up with the red window. Set the Stitch Length
    Dial on reverse cycle (
    ). To lock the
    machine in reverse cycle, hold down the reverse
    lever and move the Stitch Length Dial towards
    the left so that the reverse cycle sewing symbol
    lines up with the dot on the machine.
    Be sure that when you finish using the reverse
    cycle stitch that you unlock the reverse mech
    anism by pressing down the reverse lever, and
    turning the Stitch Length Dial c’ockwise to 0.
    Release the reverse lever and set the stitch
    length at the desired point.

    .0

    The overlock stitch is designed to sew together
    and overcast the edge in one operation: for ex
    ample when constructing a T-shirt, sweater, or
    in any place which calls for a %“ seam allow
    ance. li you wish, you can cut out the garment
    with a wider seam allowance. Sew the seam with
    the overlock (remember that the left-hand edge
    of the overlock should follow the seam marking)
    and then trim the remaining seam allowance
    along the stitches, as shown in the picture.

    23



  • Page 25

    Bridging stitch
    Turn the outer scale on the Program Selector
    so that number 5 in the center needle position
    is in the red window. Turn the handle so tnat
    ) on the middle scale is lined
    the symbol (
    up with the red window. Set the Stitch Length
    Dial between 1 2.
    ;-‘-

    -

    The bridge stftch is used for sewing girdle
    fabric, terry cloth, sewing on elastic and for
    mending and patching.

    24

    II



  • Page 26

    Shell stitch
    Turn the outer dial on the Program Selector so
    that number 5 in the center needle position is
    in the red window. Turn the handle so that
    the symbol ( ). ) on the middle scaleis lined
    up with the red window. Set the Stitch Length
    Dial between 2 3.
    -

    The shell stitch is used to make a decorative
    hem in sheer fabric, especially nylon tricot.
    To obtain the shell effect, turn a narrow hem to
    the wrong side; sew the seam so that the zigzag
    stitch goes outside the folded edge. After you
    have finished the seam, trim the excess fabric
    from the wrong side close to the stitches.

    25



  • Page 27

    Under Side

    Upper Side

    —r

    Buttonholes
    oe
    In order to sew buttonholes, you should chan
    will
    over to the buttonhole foot (284>. You
    hed
    attac
    is
    it
    and
    find it in the accessory box
    er
    in the same way as the regular snap-on press
    foot.

    In
    Loosen the upper thread tension slightly.
    the
    ing
    hook
    by
    on
    crease the bottom tensi
    .
    bobbin thread on the hook on the bobbin case

    The buttonhole will look better, if you use
    fine thread.
    Mark on the fabric where you want to place
    the buttonhole.
    Always test sew a buttonhole and adjust the
    stitch length setting.
    Begin as usual by making sure that the needle
    is in the highest position.
    Turn the outer scale on the Program Selector
    so that A is in the red window. Align the symbol
    on the handle with the red window. Set the
    stitch length on the buttonhole symbol.

    26



  • Page 28

    S

    eww

    . . .——

    •1











    —-

    -



    first column of zigzag stitching in reverse. If
    the stitches are not sufficiently close, reduce
    the stitch length slightly. When you have sewn
    this column to the right length, stop the
    machine with the needle raised Out of the
    fabric and turn the dial to B.

    I
    I
    The next step is to form the first closing bar.
    Sew 3 4 stitches while holding back the fabric
    or lowering the feed dog. Then stop the machine
    with the needle raised out of the fabric and
    turnthedialtoC.
    .

    Now sew the other column of zigzag stitching
    the same distance as the first one. Stop the
    machine with the needle raised out of the
    fabric and turn the dial to 0.

    I
    I
    :,

    In position D the machine makes the final
    closing bar. Make 3 4 stitches while holding
    back the fabric or lowering the feed dog, stop
    ping the machine with the needle raised. Then
    turn the dial to E and lock the threads with
    a few stitches while holding back the fabric
    or lowering the feed dog. If you lowered the
    feed dog, make sure that you raise it after you
    have finished.
    -

    27

    I





  • Page 29

    __

    Buftonhole knife
    C__

    The buttonhole knife which you wW find in
    the accessory box, is equipped with a safety
    cap which, when taken off, can be pushed onto
    the back of the knife and thus provides a good
    handle.

    When you have finished sewing all of the button
    holes, it is time to Cut them open. Do this by
    piercing the fabric at right angles until tne curved
    edge reaches down to the buttonhole.

    Then incline the knife more or less parallel to
    the fabric and move it carefully forward so as
    not to cut through the end of the buttonhole.

    Helpful hint:
    You can also cut the buttonhole to the middle
    and then cut the same way from the other
    direction; or, place a pin at the end of the
    buttonhole so that you will not cut too far.

    28



  • Page 30

    Sewing on buttons
    To sew on buttons, turn the outer scale on the
    Program Selector so that number 3 in left needle
    position is in the red window. Align the symbol
    on the handle with the window. Lower the
    feed dog. Use normal thread tension.

    Remove the presser foot, put the button in
    place and lower the presser bar. Set the Stitch
    Width Selector to a suitable setting--about 3;
    1/6”
    most buttons have a spacing of 1/8”
    4 mm) between the holes--turn the hand
    (3
    wheel towards you and test carefully that the
    needle goes through the center of first one
    hole and then the other. Depress the foot
    control without disturbing the position of the
    button. Hold both thread ends behind the
    machine and sew 5 6 stitches. Then move to
    the other holes and repeat the process if using
    four-hole buttons. Set the Stitch Width Se
    lector to 0 and lock the thread.
    When the button has been sewn on, remember
    to raise the feed dog.
    -

    -

    -

    29



  • Page 31

    Roller presser foot
    Upper Side

    Under Side

    The roller presser foot, is suitable for coarseknitted material and certain jersey and stretch
    fabrics as well as leather imitations and plastic
    materials. The grooved rollers give better friction
    against these materials.

    Zipper presser foot
    The zipper foot can be attached so that it
    comes either to the right or to the left of the
    needle. This makes it possible to sew on both
    sides of the zipper without turning the work.
    Usually instructions for inserting a. zipper are
    included when you purchase the zipper. How
    ever, you may find the following simplified
    method easier to follow.

    N

    30

    1.
    For this zipper application Ye” seam allowance
    is needed. Add if necessary. Sew the seam to
    notch for zipper opening. Baste the opening
    together with long stitches.



  • Page 32

    2.
    Press the seam open and remove the basting.

    3.
    Make a stitching from the right side, 3/8” (1 cm>
    from one side of the opening.

    4.
    Change to zipper foot. Place a piece of trans
    parent tape to the cloth edge of the zipper,
    on the wrong side, so that half the tape edge
    comes outside.

    31



  • Page 33

    5.
    Take the side of the opening which i not
    stitched, and stick it to the taDe, puttinG the
    folded cloth edge as close as possibie to the
    chain of the zipper. Work from the right slOe.
    The tape will serve as basting.

    6.
    Turn up the seam allowance. Sew in the fold
    (press crease), from the wrong side. Sew from
    the bottom up, continuing to the top of the
    zipper.

    7.
    Remove the tape.

    32



  • Page 34

    8.
    Place the other edge of the opening, where
    the stitching is, so that the cloth edge covers
    the zipper or chain. Tape together the open
    ing from the right side, starting from the bottom
    of the zipper.

    9.
    Fold back the cloth and sew as close as possible
    to the stitching on the seam allowance. Sew
    from the bottom up. Open the zipper a little
    just before the seam is finished. It is easier to
    sew when the slide of the zipper doesn’t stand
    in the way.

    10
    Remove the tape and the zipper is attached.

    33



  • Page 35

    Mending and patching
    s)

    LJ

    The three-step zigzag and the bridge stitch are
    the most suitable for mending and patching
    the majority of materials. This method is called
    “quick-mend”. The regular presser foot may be
    used. It is naturally better if the thread is of
    the same color as the fabric. The stitch length
    and stitch width should be adjusted to Suit
    the material. To start, try stitch length 1 2 and
    stitch width 4 5.
    -

    ‘I—

    When mending a rip, bring the edges of the
    fabric together and sew them together with
    three-step zigzag or bridge stitch. If necessary,
    reinforce the rip with a piece of fabric on the
    wrong side and sew back and forth once or
    twice.

    34



  • Page 36

    When patching a hole, cut out the patch slightly
    larger than the damaged area. Place the patch
    on the right side; sew around all edges; sew
    a second seam inside the first seam. From the
    wrong side cut out the damaged area.

    A threadbare spot is repaired by sewing back
    and forth with three-step zigzag. Usethe reverse
    lever. For. every row of stitching, guide the
    fabric slightly to the side so that the stitches
    cover the entire worn area. If the fabric is
    very worn, a piece of the fabric or a lining
    may be attached to the wrong side of the
    material as reinforcement. Use bandage guaze
    as reinforcement material when mending table
    cloths, napkins and towels.

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    35



  • Page 37

    Darning
    Put the needle in its highest position and re
    move the presser foot ankle. Attach the darn
    ing foot to the machine making sure that the
    arm of the foot rests on the needle screw.
    Set the sewing machine for straight stitch as a
    wide zigzag stitch might break the needle.
    Drop the feed dog. Decrease the top thread
    tension slightly.
    Darning with the darning foot is done by free
    hand and, therefore, requires some practice.
    it is easier to darn if the fabric is stretched in
    a hoop. When stretched, the fabric should lie
    flat on the machine.
    Place the hoop under the darning foot. Lower
    the presser foot and bring up the lower thread.
    Begin by sewing back and forth over the hole
    with long stitches. Since the feed dog is dis
    engaged, you guide the hoop back and forth by
    yourself and thus determine the stitch length.
    The faster you move the hoop, the longer the
    stitch will be. Keep the machine speed uniform.
    Continue in the same manner until threads
    have been stitched across the entire hole.
    Then turn the work 9O’ and darn across the
    hole with short stitches which are obtained
    by moving the hoop slowly back and forth.
    Keep the machine speed uniform. if the hole
    is large, cover it with guaze and then darn as
    described above. Darning can also be done
    on the bias of the fabric or in circles if this
    would be better adapted to the structure of
    the fabric.

    36



  • Page 38

    Free-hand monograms
    and embroidery
    Remove the presser foot including the ankle.
    Drop the feed dog. Set the Program Selector
    on the center needle position. The width of the
    zigzag stitch will depend upon how wide you
    wish the monogram to be. Loosen the top
    thread tension slightly. Hook the bobbin thread
    on the bobbin case hook.
    It is easier to monogram if the fabric is stretched
    tightly in a hoop. Place the work under the
    needle with the fabric touching the arm of the
    machine. Bring up the bottom thread. Re
    member to lower the presser bar so that you
    will have tension on the upper thread.
    For most people free-hand embroidery and
    monogramming requires some practice. Prac
    tice the technique by sewing circles and figures
    entirely by free-hand.
    First, sew once with a narrower stitch width
    and rather high speed on the machine. Then
    sew once again, this time with a slightly wider
    stitch which covers the first stitching. Move
    the work somewhat more slowly than the first
    time so that the stitches will be close together.
    Machine speed should be rather high.

    37



  • Page 39

    Twin needles
    Twin needles are used for forming raised seams
    as well as for sewing decorative stitches using
    two threads. The twin needle is inserted in the
    same way as a regular needle.
    When using a twin needle you can use any
    design on the middle scale of the Program
    Selector. Make sure that the zigzag width is
    not set for more than 2; otherwise you will
    break the needle. Slowlymove the handwheel
    for an entire pattern so that you are sure the
    needle will not hit the needle plate. Also check
    the stitch length to be sure the stitches are
    not too close.
    Place a spool of thread on each spool pin.
    Thread both threads through the upper thread
    guides. Bring each thread around the tension
    dial with the threads on each side of the tension
    plate. Be sure to lock both threads in the tension
    spring. Insert each thread through separate
    holes in the take-up lever. Both threads go
    through the front thread guide but they sep
    arate at the needle thread guides.

    Iii

    38



  • Page 40

    I

    Service manual
    A well-constructed sewing machine like the
    TURISSA
    usually does not need any major
    servicing as long as the machine is kept cleaned
    and oiled.
    Most problems are usually caused by a blunt or
    bent needle. Therefore, the first thing to do if
    the machine does not perform properly is to
    change the needle. Always use a new needle.
    Use System 130/705H.

    SERVICE
    MANUAL

    Change needle
    To change the needle, loosen the screw on the
    needle clamp. Remove the old needle by pulling
    down on the needle. Insert the new needle
    with the flat side facing away from you. Push
    the needle up as far as it will go and tighten
    the needle clamp screw. To make certain that
    the needle is correctly inserted always run your
    fingernail along the front of the needle; you
    should be able to feel the groove of the needle.
    When the needle goes down into the fabric
    the thread lies in this groove. If the needle is
    not correctly inserted with the groove facing
    you, the thread will break and no stitches
    will be formed.
    39



  • Page 41

    Cleaning
    After you have been sewing for some time
    lint will collect around the bobbin case. When
    this occurs, remove the bobbin case and brush
    out the lint with a small brush. Make sure there
    is no lint or threads on the shuttle spindle.

    ____/

    Occasionally the machine should be cleaned
    more thoroughly depending upon how much
    the machine is used and also on the type of
    fabric you are sewing. Some fabrics produce
    much more lint than others. if this lint builds
    up underneath the feed dogs the machine will
    not feed the fabric properly.
    Remove the needle and the presser foot. In
    order to get at the feed dogs, remove the top
    of the free arm. This is done by removing the
    screw located on the left of the top of the
    free arm. Remove the top plate by pulling to
    wards the left. Clean away any lint.
    Replace the top of the free arm. Make sure that
    you tighten up the screw properly so that the
    feed dogs will work correctly.

    When you are cleaning the machine, check
    the tension spring on the bobbin case to be
    sure there is no lint under the spring. This will
    cause incorrect tension. If there is lint under
    the spring remove it with the point of a pin
    or needle.
    40



  • Page 42

    Lubrication
    In order to serve you satisfactorily, your
    new
    sewing machine will require oiling like
    all other
    precision products. Remember: It is
    important
    that you do not give the machine
    too much
    oil
    two drops at each lubricating point
    are
    sufficient. Too much oil does not give
    better
    results; the oil only runs out and may
    stain
    the fabric.
    NOTE: USE ONLY LIGHTWEIGHT,
    PET
    ROLEUM BASE, ACID-FREE OIL.
    This oil is provided in the accessory
    box that comes with the machine. If
    you should run out, you may obtain
    additional oil from your local dealer.
    Remove the two screws on the top cove
    r and
    remove the cover.
    Remove the needle and the presser foot.
    Remove the screw that holds the top
    plate of
    the free arm and remove the plate.

    Move the face plate and light out of the way.
    This is done by loosening but not remo
    ving the
    two screws which hold the plate. You
    get at
    these screws from the top of the mach
    ine.



  • Page 43

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  • Page 45

    Belt tension
    The belt goes from the motor to the machine
    and drives the machine. If the belt is slipping
    the machine will run slowly and if the belt is
    too tight it will also run slowly.
    To remove or adjust the belt, remove the four
    screws on the belt guard as the arrows indicate,
    remove the belt guard.

    EL:

    %

    Loosen screws “B,” Fig. 2. Slide Bracket “C”
    upward to relax tension on belt; downward to
    increase belt tension.
    Adjustment: Unthread machine; with machine
    running puth bracket “C,” down
    ward till machine speed is slug
    gish; move bracket “C” upward
    slowly till machine speed increases
    and tighten screws “B”.
    Note:

    44

    The belt equipment with this
    machine is made of a nonde
    teriorating material and is not
    affected by oil or age.



  • Page 46

    Light bulb
    The light bulb is located
    inside the face plate.
    To remove the bulb, uns
    crew the bulb through
    the opening at the bottom
    of the face plate.
    LI

    I



    K

    flN_

    Needle plate replacem
    ent

    A bent or broken needle
    can damage the needle
    plate slot so that even
    with a new needle the
    thread will continue to
    break. To change the
    needle plate: Remove the
    needle and the presser
    foot. Remove the screw
    located on the left
    side of the top of the
    free arm plate. Slide out
    the free arm cover plate
    towards the left.

    Turn the plate upside
    down and remove the
    two screws on the nee
    dle plate. Insert a new
    needle plate making sur
    e the screws are replaced
    tightly. Replace the fre
    e arm cover plate.
    I,

    Under sde

    ‘\

    (.
    45



  • Page 47

    Bobbinwinder adjustments
    An incorrectly filled or overfilled bobbrn wiH
    cause uneven thread tension. If the bob b
    overfills, loosen set screw “A” Fig. 1, anc
    turn bobbinwinder stop clockwise. If bobbin
    winder stop disengages the bobbin prior to
    complete filling, turn counterclockwise.
    Note:

    The bobbinwinder should stop
    winding 1/32” (1 mm) from the
    outer edge
    of the bobbir..
    The bobbin may wind unevenly as illustrated
    in Fig. 4. Turn the thread tension device, Fig. 2,
    clockwise with the aid of the large screwdriver
    until the winding becomes even as in Fig. 3.
    If the winding looks like Fig. 5, turn the thread
    tension device counterclockwise until the
    winding becomes even as in Fig. 3.

    46



  • Page 48

    Bobbinwinder wheel
    replacement
    It is not likely that you will ever have to replace
    the bobbinwinder wheel, but if you do loosen
    screws “A” and remove machine top cover.

    Remove C-clip at point B; (this may be done
    with the large screwdriver included with attach
    ments) lift bobbinwinder frame “C” while
    holding spring “D” and remove. The rubber ring
    may be twisted or cut off; stretch new rubber
    ring over pulley. Reinstall bobbinwinder frame
    with spring; insure that the end of the spring
    engages slotted area of the bobbinwinder frame
    and mounting bracket. Attach C-clip.

    p

    47

    I



  • Page 49

    Sewing hook clogged
    (machine locked)
    Remove the needle and unthread the machine.
    Rotate handwheel backwards (away from you).
    After sewing hook is free, remove any threads
    around the hook or around me shuttle spindle.
    Clean away any lint and oil the hook.

    48



  • Page 50

    Maintenance hints
    Unattractive seams
    A. The needle is not correctly inserted.
    B. The needle is bent or blunt.
    C. The thread tension is incorrect.
    D. The machine is incorrectly threaded.
    E. The needle, thread and fabric do not
    correspond.
    F. The lower thread is not of the same
    quality or thickness as the upper thread.
    G. The bobbin is incorrectly inserted in
    bobbin case.
    H. Lint or thread is wrapped around the
    spindle of the sewing hook.
    I. Using incorrect sewing foot.
    J. The bobbin may be over filled, causing
    a tight lower tension.
    K. Bobbin wound unevenly.

    Needle breaks
    A. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
    B. You may have been pulling the fabric
    when sewing. The needle can easily de
    flect against the needle plate and be
    broken.
    C. Bobbin wound too full.

    49



  • Page 51

    Upper thread breaks
    A. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
    B. The needle is bent or blunt.
    C. The needle groove or eye has too sharp
    of an edge.
    D. The needle and thread do not correspond.
    E. The needle plate slot is damaged and has
    sharp edges.
    F. The upper thread is incorrectly threaded.
    G. The upper thread tension is too tight.
    H. Poor quality thread may be knotted.
    I. Thread is entangled on the spool pin.
    -

    Lower thread breaks
    A. The bobbin case is incorrectly inserted.
    B. The lower thread is incorrectly threaded.
    C. The lower thread tension is too tight.
    D. The bobbin is wound too full.
    E. The needle plate slot is damaged and has
    sharp edges.
    F. Lint or thread is wrapped around the
    shuttle spindle.
    G. Bobbin is bent or has sharp edges.

    Lower thread not brought up by upper thread
    A. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
    B.. The needle is bent.
    C. Incorrect needle system: use System
    130/705 H.
    50



  • Page 52

    Uneven tensions
    A. Upper and lower threads not of same
    weight.
    B. The sewing thread is of poor quality.
    C. The needle, thread and fabric do not
    correspond.
    D. Thread tension, upper and lower may
    be unbalanced.
    Fabric puckers
    A. The upper thread tension is too tight.
    B. The upper and lower thread are of dif
    ferent thickness.
    C. The needle, thread and fabric do not
    correspond.
    D. The needle may be blunt.
    E. Using incorrect presser foot.

    Stitch length varies
    A. Using incorrect presser foot.
    B. The feed dog clogged by dust and lint.

    Skipped stitches
    A. Needle is incorrectly inserted.
    B. Needle is bent or blunt.
    C. Incorrect needle system; use System
    130/705 H
    D. Upper thread incorrectly threaded.
    E. The needle, thread and fabric do not
    correspond.
    F. Using incorrect presser foot.
    G. Using different size and quality of thread
    for the upper and lower thread.
    51



  • Page 53

    Machine does not feed fabric
    A. The stitch length dial set on 0; adjust 1 5.
    B. The feed dog is lowered, raise by turning
    the feed dog dial to the straight stitch
    symbol.
    C. The feed dog teeth are clogged with lint.
    D. Using improper sewing foot.
    E. Pressure on the presser foot released or
    too loose.
    -

    Machine does not sew the stitch indicated
    A. Controls have incorrect setting; refer to
    operating manual for correct stitch setting.

    Machine runs sluggishly
    A. The feed dog teeth are clogged with lint.
    B. Dirt or lint in the sewing hook or the
    bobbincase.
    C. The outlet voltage is too low.
    D. Drive-belt too tight or too loose.
    E. Oiling required.

    Machine will not run
    A. Hand wheel release not tightened.
    B. Bobbinwinder is engaged.
    C. Machine not plugged into electrical
    out let.
    52






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